Palm Springs
I love Palm Springs. It is the definition of a retreat. Nestled in the desert between the San Jacinto Mountains to the west and Joshua Tree to the northeast, it is an oasis with palm trees, pools, and sunshine. I think I got sucked in by the ads that I used to see plastered on my bus stop in the middle of frosty, windy, northeast winters. They did a great marketing campaign, so in the last several years Palm Springs has really experienced a resurgence.
If you really want an escape, you should just stay in one of the fancy resort hotels and never leave. I think that's actually what they want you to do. The best restaurants are in hotels. The only place you can play music outside is at hotels (outdoor music is banned from rental properties). And if you want a scene, you can get a day pass to one of the hotel pools if you're not staying there. So, if I were you, I would pick your favorite (there's one for every vibe) and just relax and indulge. And if you must leave your retreat, eat and drink at the others. Below is a breakdown of some of my favorites, and if you make it to the end, I share links to my picks for non-hotel restaurants and activities.
Stay / Eat / Drink / Play
If you're looking for a party, stay at The Ace. 100%. It's so fun, the rooms are reasonable, it has a really relaxed boho chic vibe, and everyone is young and beautiful. I'm pretty sure I've even seen some artists and musicians there with their cool AF kids. Their kids dressed better than me by a lot and ate avocado toast in a very nonchalant way while I instagrammed mine like it was the first one I'd ever seen. They have an event every night at their bar and on Saturdays and Sundays they have a DJ at their pool party. Their restaurant King's Highway looks like an old school diner but has green juices, cold brew, and food for people whose main diet consists of kale and butternut squash. But also tacos. It is dope. You could easily never leave. If you stay elsewhere, definitely go for the food or the fun evening activities and maybe get a $20 pool pass for the day. (Also, short story about the giant rattan woven elephant head on the wall: the owner found it at an estate sale and someone else wanted it too, so they kept bidding until he was finally like, "whatever he offers you, I will pay more," and that ended it. Baller.)
The pool at The Ace Hotel
The Parker is basically my fantasy come true. It is a Jonathan-Adler-designed hotel with serious mid-century bones that was painted all white and then infused with Jonathan Adler's pops of color and gold. And every outdoor space is this secret garden of palm trees, hammocks, tall hedges, and garden party furniture that feels like your own private hideaway where you might run into Alice and the Queen of Hearts playing croquet. And it has a nautical-themed spa. And a lemonade stand. And a wine cellar and bar. WHAT MORE COULD YOU ASK FOR? I am way too poor to stay there and can barely afford brunch at their restaurant Norma's, but that is totally worth throwing down for. Norma's is the most pleasant brunch experience with little warm fluffy donuts and creamy lemon custard. And for dinner Mister Parker's is a serious steakhouse that is dark and elegant like The Polo Bar. Maybe if you're from New York you don't care because you have these things, but Palm Springs has better weather and that is a game changer. (Side note: You cannot walk around the grounds just because you eat at their restaurants, but you can hang out in their living room area and sit in the individual rattan hammocks or by their retro fireplace.)
The Colony Palms is what I picture when I think of a California oasis: Spanish colonial architecture with plaster walls, terra cotta tile roofs, palm trees, a pool in the middle of the courtyard, mosaic tile floors, and a striped canopy to keep the sun off your face while you eat tacos. I feel a warm breeze and cool guacamole in my mouth just thinking about it. The food is just delicious and the drinks are generously mixed. It is just so pleasant and relaxing. It's expensive, but not unattainable. And it feels like the kind of quiet, anonymous place celebrities go to relax. It for sure has an old Hollywood vibe to it, elegant, secret, and yet casual enough to unwind. I would highly recommend going to their restaurant The Purple Palm just to sit by the pool, wear big sunglasses, and feel like you're Marilyn Monroe.
The Saguaro is a fun hotel. So fun that if you are over 30, I would suggest you stay elsewhere and come party here. It's so happy with its rainbow colors and neon lights, ping pong table in the lobby, lawn games outside, DJ, and pool floaties everywhere. And the rooms are great and reasonably priced if you're looking for somewhere to stay with your squad. If you are looking for a place with your partner, the fluorescent lights and the motel-vibe of the rooms really kill the mood. So think "spring break," not "romantic getaway." That said, the food was awesome, the bar was a fun place to eat cheap tacos and beer, and I would definitely go back for a guys weekend if I ever have a crew again.
My other (untested) hotel suggestions: There are some new kids on the block in Palm Springs. Or at least, I haven't been to them. They are either too rich for my blood or they are the kind of super secret places that are trying to preserve quietude for their guests. Holiday House is adorable with its Serena and Lily vibe and it's not over the top expensive. Sparrows Lodge is a charming rustic getaway for those who prefer more of a mountain desert retreat. Kimpton's The Rowan is the new kid and it's right on the main drag of Palm Springs next to the new fancy Starbucks Reserve. It might have the only rooftop pool in the area and looks basically like everything you pinned from West Elm and CB2 to your MCM pinterest board. L'Horizon is basically all the things about L.A. that are probably too cool for me. Even their website is too cool for me. But it just makes me want it more.
The lobby of The Rowan
Just Eat
Thai Smile for the best Thai takeout. I know you're getting yourself some Pad Thai, but also try the Masaman Curry with beef.
Sherman's Deli for some good 'ole New York latkes, lox, pastrami sandwiches, and cake. You will take home leftovers. My mom actually fought me off with her fork when I came near her chocolate dome slice.
Rooster and the Pig. I did not go, but I can tell you that I'm upset about it and am going next time.
Koffi North for your morning coffee and reading the paper with the locals in a beautiful courtyard. Koffi South is a smaller setup by the Ace Hotel. A larger one will open in the spring on Tahquitz Canyon Way just a couple blocks off the main street.
The courtyard behind Koffi North
See and Do
Palm Springs has three things that other places just can't compete with: (1) beautiful desert landscapes, (2) block after block of happy mid-century homes, and (3) the best outlet shopping in the country. You should take the time to see all of these, preferably in a convertible. I'm totally serious about the convertible. We had one for our last trip and I can't imagine what it would be like without the top down, the sun shining, the warm desert air on my face, the music blasting, cruising 80 mph down the highway. It's probably the closest I'll ever be to any heaven. And it even made buying toilet paper fun.
Like I said earlier, Palm Springs lies between the San Jacinto Mountains (state park) and Joshua Tree (national park). To get to Mount San Jacinto, you need to take the AirTram. You should buy tickets over a month ahead of time or get up at 8 am to get in line. Be prepared because the trails are easy, but it's 8,500 feet above sea level so the air is thin. I got tired just going down the ramp to the park entrance. To get to Joshua Tree, it's a 45 minute drive to the north entrance (where you see cool rock formations and people climbing) or a 30 minute drive to the south entrance (which is more of a stroll in the low-lying desert). Another pretty easy hike is Tahquitz Canyon. If you go up, you get a great view of the city, and if you go down, you get to see waterfalls. It's right at the bottom of the main street in Palm Springs, so it's super easy to get to. Josh will write more about how cool the parks are.
For the mid-century house tour, I would recommend downloading the Palm Springs Modern app so you can just drive yourself around. Bob Hope's house is visible from just about anywhere in Palm Springs if you just look up toward the mountains, but it's a private residence and closed to the public. You can also visit Sunnylands, home to varied desert flora and Nancy Reagan’s favorite New Year’s Eve party. The thing I said about doing the house tour in a convertible still applies, but since you're moving a little slower on city streets, you can also rent a scooter.
Forget everything you know about outlet shopping because Desert Hills Premium Outlets is a whole different ballgame. There are tour buses that bring Asians visiting the U.S. from Los Angeles to Palm Springs to go to this outlet. It’s the only outlet for major designers like Saint Laurent, Balenciaga, and Loro Piana, but they have some normal but really nice stuff too like Rag & Bone, Theory, and Vince. Below is the Saint Laurent bomber I got for literally 90% off.
